So you want to make that lovely Advance 4749
Nightgown do you? Yeah, me too. Something so dreamy just has to be remade. I
don’t have a copy of the pattern though but honestly I’m just tired of waiting.
Someone will outbid me or it sells on a random craft site moments prior to my
clicking “BUY ME NOW” and I lose the vision of making that styled nightgown in
the prettiest of fabrics and laces. So I’m done with waiting and ready to make
my own vintage inspired nightgowns.
This
link will show you a nice image of the front of the original pattern http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Advance_4749
Making a nightgown in a similar style is going to
require these things -> Pattern, fabric, thread, lining fabric (optional,
you can use salvage from the fabric used for the outside of the fabric), lace
or ribbon, scissors, measuring tape, sewing machine, sewing pins, sewing needle
(optional but you will probably need one).
Fabric
yardage needed-(based on a 45” width fabric/ longer version) yardage is an
estimated 52” for the front skirt, same for the back, 15” width x 10” length
for the bodice x 2, back panel of 9” length x 20” width x 2 = 140” in length
which comes out to about 4 yards of fabric. For the shorter version which runs
about knee length you will want about 2.75 yards of fabric for the version
without the optional pieces mentioned below in the details on the sewing
pattern pieces. This yardage will cover the top bodice, back bodice, front and
back skirt.
If you are making the entire outer garment out of the same material
then you will also want to include an additional 14” to cut fabric for the
waistband (cut on a fold at center front), and the scrap fabric left over will
cover the shoulder straps.
If you are
including a lace overlay for the waistband and shoulder straps (over the fabric used for the bodice and
skirt) you will also want to include that 14” measurement on a
center fold in your fabric yardage as well. For the lining you will want about a ½
yard depending on the width but again, take a look at the pattern in relation
to your measurements before purchasing the fabric to ensure the correct amount
of fabric.
If you would like a shorter version
or are using the same fabric for the lining as the outside fabric, you will
need to recalculate the yardage needed. See
below for this.
Pattern
pieces: (10 total pattern pieces) Shoulder Straps
(cut 2-if you would like a thin foam insert or interfacing here to provide more
structure you will want to cut 2 of this material as well), Bodice
(cut 2), Bodice Lining (cut 2), Front
Waistband (cut 1 on fold), Upper Back (cut 1 for outer
fabric on fold, 1 for lining), Front Skirt (cut 1 on fold), Back Skirt
(cut 2)
Optional: Waistband Ties
(I have 2
lengths, the first being shorter so you can cinch the back a little with a
button in back, or longer if you would like long ties), Bodice
Frill (this
pattern piece offers a general width and length for your frill piece if you
decide to include it with your nightgown. Cut 1), Bows (bows to include on each
side where the bodice and shoulder strap meet, cut 2).
Cutting the fabric -> cut all of the pieces out with the fabric folded in half lengthwise. Cut both front
and back pieces of the skirt, then the bodice pieces, waistband, back, and then
the salvage will be used for the front and back lining panels.
Notes:
Testing 1-2-3 (placed
here so that you may benefit from my testing before you make your own ;)
When creating the pattern and testing the results (over and over again) I
used a variety of fabrics. I used an ivory satin in the longer style
with a hidden side zipper. For the next version I used a light weight lavender
and white printed knit in the longer style, and then I used a navy blue jersey
and hot pink printed fabric made in the shorter version. Each test led me back
to alterations on the pattern pieces themselves but in the end I was pleased
with the results.
I would have to say this pattern is moderately advanced. The
style is very pretty and I found a knit fabric with a bit of give worked best so
that you get that taught look around the rib cage but can get away with not having to add closure. If you are planning on going with a non-stretch fabric then I would recommend a hidden
zipper or closure of some sort, or perhaps simply the ties as they will offer
that slimming look.
Make sure when you attach the bodice to the top of the waistband that you tuck the bodice pieces in toward the peaked center area before you sew them down so your bodice area provides decent coverage. If not then you will find the front will be too open and dips a bit too low. It might work for other patterns but due to the shape and placement of the waistband it is rather important to make sure it is tucked in appropriately or the shoulder straps will be out too far and you will be disappointed with the results. When adding the final hem allow about 2.5"-3" in the back of the skirt.
In regards to making the pattern, I admit to having made many drafts and changes along the way. If you are making your own pattern my advice is to not be intimidated and just work on each piece at a time. If you can start with a paper pattern copy and then use scrap fabric you should be fine. I started with the shoulder straps. Then I made the bodice panels in front and this took a while to get perfect, mainly because the shape is set up against that peaked waistband but in the end after a few modifications I finally got it. I then moved onto the waistband and I tried this in a few different widths. In the end I settled on about 3" in width for this piece as it ends up being about 2.5" in width once you sew the pieces together.
Once you have the waistband drafted up then the skirt piece is not too difficult to make. You will want to keep drawing down and outward from the waistband and you have your front skirt. The back skirt pattern piece is similar to the front only the back has a slight curve and a seam running down the center. I cut a back upper panel as well and with this I simply took the back skirt panel and laid it out and then traced upward above the V in back. I measured how high this should be based on my measurements and that of the front of the garment. I cut the back upper panel higher than needed in testing as I can always cut away what I don't need in the end but that way I was able to determine how high and wide I wanted it to be. If you are short on fabric and need to include a back center seam for the back upper panel this is fine and will not wreck the look.
With the front and back ready to be put together lay your front piece out facing up. Align the back on top-fabric facing in-and pin where the peak seams meets but make sure when pinning that the front and back panels are the same width across before pinning down. If you have a center seam in back running down from the upper bodice you can tighten up the back. If not then you will want to make sure that your measurements in the torso equal those of your garment to ensure it fits properly. My advice would be to measure lots and lots!
The finished garment is very flattering, even more so than I had hoped. It really is a nice cut, and definitely a new one for me. Knowing the original pattern was a 1940's styled garment I had assumed that as nice as the images were, the item would need some updating. In the end the only real change I made (well, as far as I can tell from the pictures of course) was the slimmer width of the shoulder blades.
I added diamond accents in place of the bows as shown in the original pattern for the ivory satin nightgown. This is the wedding style and I like the accent so if you were thinking of bows they do look good in the shoulder strap-meets-bodice-area. This nightgown is really comfortable and looks great in the shorter version as well. I would also consider this pattern for the use of a slip and as a beach cover up. In the coming weeks you just might see both the nightgown and beach cover ups in this style. Once you see how fabulously slimming this is you will want a dozen more. I know I do and I can't believe I'm saying that since I have just made four new ones. I do have new projects to work on but this pattern is just as pretty as I had hoped!
Sewing
Order->
Follow these steps below to ensure the easiest way to construct the garment.
Create the shoulder straps by sewing
lengthwise with the fabric facing in, trimming the seams and then turning the
straps right side out. You can also purchase the pieces for adjustable straps
or the pre-made adjustable shoulder straps ready to sew in at your local sewing
shop. I would recommend a shoulder strap no wider than ½” however it appears
from the pattern that the straps are about 1” wide, and this is easier for
turning in sewn shoulder straps. You can also purchase trim, and you will see
trim that I used in the third test with the navy blue and printed nightgown.
Gather the lower part of the bodice pieces
(2) and attach with a small seam at the center front to hold them together. Do
the same for the bodice Lining (2). Place the shoulder straps facing down and
pointing downward on top of the Bodice Front and sew the straps to the bodice.
Sew the bodice and bodice lining
together around the top, stopping ¼” in from the side seams.
Sew the waistband to the bodice by
aligning the pieces at the center peak and adding about 3 stitches across the top to hold the two together in alignment.
Next pin down both sides and sew. Repeat the sewing so that the seam on the
outside is clean visually and has straight lines. Sew the front Skirt
panel to the waistband by aligning the pieces at the center peak and
adding about 3 stitches across the peak
to hold the two together in alignment.
Pin down both sides and sew. Repeat
the sewing so that the seam on the outside is clean visually and has straight
lines.
Sew the upper back panel to the back skirt
panel by aligning the pieces at the center peak and adding about 3 stitches
across the peak to hold the two together in alignment. Next pin down both sides
and sew. Repeat the sewing so that the seam on the outside is clean visually
and has straight lines.
If you are adding side ties you will want to
prepare those by sewing down one length, sewing one end and sewing up the other
side, leaving the end open. Repeat with the other tie, trim the excess, turn in
and press. Then you will want to sew a tie to the front on each side where the
arrow points meet at the sides, fabrics facing. It will help if you pin the
side ties in toward the front of the skirt as you work on the rest of the
garment.
Align the front and back so that the waistband
in front meets the peak in back, pin going up toward the top and down the
length of the skirt on each side. Sew the side seams of the front and back
together starting at ¼” below the top and ending at the bottom hem. Repeat with
the other side seam.
Trim as needed and pin the shoulder straps in back
as marked on the pattern. Sew the strap on each side facing down, pin
and sew the back lining panel across the back-fabrics facing, turn the bodice lining in and sew it down. I find it most helpful to either leave about ¼”
seam on all areas so that I have an opportunity later on to tuck the fabric
under and sew the seams clean but if you do not have enough seam allowance for
this just take a sewing needle and sew it down by hand.
If you are adding a few additional embellishments
you will do so now. If adding a frill you will gather and then trim, pin
the frill starting in back and sewing it down around the top bodice all the way
around and ending in back where the frill ends meet. If you are going with a bow
on each side where the bodice and shoulder straps meet, you will prepare and
add those at this time. Simply sew the straps lengthwise, turn in, sew the
little end and tie into a bow and sew down. If you have added a short side tie
with a button in back then you will want to add the button hole and button at
this time.
Now all you have to do at this point is finish up the
bottom hem and you will want to fold the nightgown lengthwise down the center
and even out the bottom hem into a slight curve *leaving about 2.5"-3" longer in back. Trim to the desired length,
leaving about 2” for the double hem. I add a zigzag stitch, trim and turn in
once more and sew the final hem.
You are now finished! Hello dreamy time nightgown…
You
look fabulous darling…
One of the first things I mentioned when making this
project was that you need a pattern. I realize many of you would rather
purchase a pattern than make your own and since I have already done all of the
hard work, I decided to make this one I drafted up available over @ Craftzies (the image above says Sophia because the custom nightgowns in this style will be available in the next few weeks over on my Sophia clothing shop ;).
The price for the sewing pattern will
be $27 with $5.50 shipping in the states, $8 to Canada and $11 shipping everywhere else internationally.
The paper used for the prints is a white
print shop paper. I have a few different sizes available for the patterns
-> 6-8-10 or 12-14-16. Please specify the
size you would like in the comments section when ordering. TY J
p.s.
If you are comparing my pattern design here with the original pattern (lucky you for having an original copy ;)
I will say that I do hope I did the pattern justice in relation to the
original, but again, I do not have an original to compare so you may find a
slight modification or two with mine. I did my best though ;)
Have a dreamy New Year!
Lindsay
No comments:
Post a Comment