It's finally done and ready wear!
Which is great because we all know that Halloween and Winter are coming ever so soon.
This costume set was a lot of fun to put together. It took a few weeks to make and consists of a jet black jersey knit Riding Tunic, a studded black vinyl Battle Vest, a long black vinyl Belt and matching Body Straps, a Scabbard with a 41" plastic Sword, a black Cape with a (faux) wolf fur around the neckline and a matching pair of (faux) fur lined Gauntlets. Everything you need really but the pants and perhaps a pair of boots.
This photo shows the complete costume set here except for the Gauntlets. The Scabbard is adjustable at either hip or on the upper part of the back. The Cape has a drawstring neckline, a big hidden hood with a drawstring of its own and the (faux) wolf fur at the neckline. The fur around the neck is removable if you would like. There is also a (faux) wolf tooth that hangs from the fur.
This photo shows the riding tunic and the battle vest belted. I also have the sword pulled out from the scabbard. The plastic sword is 41" in total length and has a 3d printed wolf hilt. My sweetie printed it and he did a really great job! I cleaned it up a bit with a dremmel tool, painted it a few times to give it some really great coloring (including a bit of glow in the dark paint to the eyes) and then a bit of gloss before attaching it to the hilt of the sword.
I ordered the plastic sword and cut the hilt off with a miter saw. I covered the hilt with the vinyl used to make the battle vest and a strip of black leather twine 3 yards in length. The blade of the sword has been treated with glow in the dark paint.
These photos show the front and back of the Riding Tunic. It was made longer with a slit down the front and back for easy riding/ fighting. The size is a mens xl and made out a soft black jersey knit fabric. The neckline is a crew styled neckline with a small opening at the back.
I really really like the fabric I selected. I went over to the black knit fabric section and closed my eyes and selected the fabric based on softness. It turned out that it was the most expensive fabric per yard but it was..even after testing once more with eyes closed..the best. So, you win some and you spend some? Something like that...
This is what the Battle Vest looks like before you have added the belt and body straps.
This photos shows the brackets that appear on the sides of the vest.
Here is a photo of the riding tunic, the battle vest and the long Belt.
The Battle Vest is pretty long, falling about 4" shorter than the cape (cape falls 51" from the upper neckline). There are two sets of brackets on each shoulder and again at the sides so the front and back panels really hold well together but can be adjusted tighter or looser as needed.
This is the back the costume with the tunic, battle vest, belt and Body Straps. Under the arms of the tunic you will see adjustable parachute snaps and hidden velcro for size adjustment.
This shows the set with the sword in the scabbard.
I left the belt really long so you can cut it off after you have wrapped it up the way you like it.
You can adjust the body straps to fit.
The Scabbard can be latched at either hip depending on if you are right or left handed or latched at the upper back (at the metal ring in the back of the body strap).
This photo shows the back view of the tunic, battle vest, belt, body straps and the scabbard without the sword.
This photo shows the tunic, the battle vest, the belt, the leather straps and the scabbard attached to the leather straps on the left side hip. You can also attach the scabbard to the belt if you find that more comfortable than the body straps.
This photo shows the riding tunic (arms tucked in so you can see a bit more the vest), the battle vest, the belt, the leather straps, the scabbard & sword, and the matching (faux) fur lined gauntlets resting at the shoulder.
The Cape is a very full cape and you can wear it either hooked closed at the front center or left open. The neckline of the cape has a drawstring. In this photo the (faux) wolf fur has been unsnapped at the neckline but is still hooked to the cape towards the back. The (faux) fur panel falls backward so that you can see a bit of the costume. The cape also has a hidden hood with a drawstring. The underside of the fur piece has a mini pocket to hold the cape if you do not want to have it out and it slips up and out from under the fur so you can have the fur on and the hood up at the same time.
This photo shows the parachute snap that holds the front of the wolf fur together at the neckline. You can unsnap this and still have the fur around the neckline as it has hidden elastic and buttons towards the back. The front fur pieces come together and cover the parachute snaps.
This photo shows the inside of the Gauntlets (the studs you see are actually the battle vest, not the gauntlets themselves). The gauntlets are laced with leather twine around the edges but the gloves were purchased in a size men's xl and are leather.
The gauntlets are made of the black vinyl fabric used to make the battle vest. I purchased a pair of xl mens leather gloves and made the wrist guards (which are adjustable with hidden velcro). I then attached those to the gloves. If you decide you would like to wear the gloves without the wrist guards you can snip the binding that holds them together (you will find extra binding materials in the small notions/ repair kit I am including with the set to reattach again).
This photo shows the (faux) wolf tooth that hangs off the fur panel. I made that out of polymer clay.
The hilt of the sword was 3d printed, you can find details @ https://www.thingiverse.com/
Not only is it really full but it has a hidden hood that tucks into a little pocket when you don;t want it, or can be used while the wolf fur is on the neckline. The neckline has a latch so it will hold closed comfortably but it also has a drawstring. The hood has a drawstring as well. The fur at the neckline has a parachute snap to hold it closed but it also has hidden elastic and buttons to hold the fur on. This allows for the fur to balance comfortably around your neck but it can also be removed if you don't want to wear it and the cape still looks great. The inside of the cape has a hook at the side to attach the gauntlets when not in use, or even to attach your keys when you're not using them.
Costume Set Instructions:
Riding Tunic: 1.5 yards black fabric, black thread.
I just picked out an oversized t-shirt and used it as a pattern for this but if you feel more comfortable picking up a pattern follow the instructions that come with. The only differences I made to my t-shirt pattern is that I made the sleeves longer so the tunic would be long sleeved and I made the bottom potion longer with a vertical seam running about 8" up the center front and back to compensate for riding and fighting.
Once you have all of the pieces cut then you will turn the front and back panels inward towards each other and sew the shoulder blades and the sides. To finish up the base of the tunic you will want to turn in and sew the edges all the way around the bottom hem. Align the sleeve seams and sew, and then sew t he sleeves to the tunic. Finish the sleeves by folding over and sewing the ends of the sleeves.
Next I cut out a long folded over strip of fabric for the crew neck. This piece will be about 1/2" longer than the length around the neckline of your tunic x 3.5" in width. Fold the crew neck piece in half-fabrics facing inward-and sew the short ends. Trim the ends. Turn the piece right side out and align and pin the crew neck piece around the neckline, and sew them together.
Battle Vest: 3 yards of black vinyl fabric, 2.5 yards of lining fabric, 150-200 grommets, spray fabric glue, fabric glue (non spray kind-the squeeze kind), 3 yards of foam, 8 brackets (check the pack you buy-sometimes they come 2 to a pack), black thread, paper, pen/ pencil, masking tape. sewing needle.
*If you are also planning on making a belt from the same fabric then you will want to cut off a long strip from the bottom of this piece of fabric before you cut the panels for the vest. Cut a long strip off that is the width of the belt buckle selected.
For the vest I started by making the pattern pieces out of paper and then I cut out the vinyl pieces once I was sure I got the right sizing and cut. Assume at least 1" seam allowance. I sewed the vinyl leg panels to the upper front on the slant in order to make one big panel. I did the same to the back pieces in the same way. Then I sewed the lining front and back the same way as I did the vinyl pieces *except that on one side seam between a leg and the breast panel I left a small opening about 4-5" in length. Make sure the seam opening is at least 3" inward from the center.
Next I added cut vinyl leather strips to the back vinyl panel. You want a total of eight of these small strips and they will be about 4" in length and narrow enough to fit through the brackets you have purchased (mine were slightly narrower than 1/2"). You will want to take a strip and slip it through the center of the bracket. Mark where you plan to sew your straps on the tunic with masking tape. Fold the piece with the bracket in half and sew down the vinyl strip twice for security to the front area of the tunic. Do this for the rest of the brackets. You will sew two bracket/ strap pieces to each shoulder and then two to each side panel.
On the front vinyl panel you will sew longer vinyl strips that will, once sewn on, fit into the brackets attached to the back panels. You will want a total of eight of these strips as well. They will be the same width as the back bracket strips you up and about 5-7" in length. You can always shorten them once you have tested them so a little longer is always better. You will want to hold the back panel up to the front and mark where you want your vinyl strips to be sewn with masking tape. Sew the strips down at the ends to the vinyl panel twice as you did for the back vinyl panel.
I added the grommets in the correct pattern to both the front and back vinyl panels. You will find it useful to make your grommet areas with small bits of masking tape. It might not have been necessary but just for good measure I added fabric glue to the back of each grommet and allowed the pieces to dry fully.
Then I cut out a TON of foam pieces to fit. I left about 3/4-1" around the side seams to help with sewing later on. I glued them down really well and allowed them to dry for another 24 hours. Check a little while after you have added the foam pieces to make sure you added enough glue. If not, add a little bit more at this point and allow to dry fully.
Now you are either finished with your battle vest or you need to do one more step. I went with a medium weight fabric for the lining and it had a bit of a stretch to it. I found that it pulled the bottom legs up just a tiny bit so I took the piece outside and placed them on a board with plastic on top. I put gloves on, grabbed my spray glue and cut a hole in a corner of the garbage bag. Then I slipped my spray glue in and down the legs and sprayed the inside so that they would not pull at all. I wasn't sure it would work but it worked just fine. Spray inside anywhere you would like the be flatter and then allow the pieces to dry for a few hours. When fully dry sew the small opening closed with a sewing needle and a piece of black thread and you will be officially finished.
Belt: *You will want a strip of fabric a bit longer than your waist size and the width that will fit well into your belt buckle. Make sure to measure with the riding tunic and battle vest on. Take a belt buckle and sew one end of the belt to the center bar on the buckle. Mark with masking tape where you would like your holes to be and hammer or snip little holes. Tie up the belt as you like it and snip the end.
Body Straps: 1 yard black vinyl. You can use the same material used for the battle vest. I went with a heavier vinyl fabric for this portion, the same material used for the belt
You need two strips of vinyl. I cut mine slightly wider around the bodice and shoulder areas. The ends on the other hand need to be narrow enough to slip through the parachute straps and the metal ring. The pieces start at the center back attached to a metal ring and extend across the bodice and down around the arms and meet either under the arms or a little lower down by the hips depending on what you find comfortable.
Sew the ends ends toward the back to the metal ring. Then wrap them around in front-holding with masking tape works-and then the ends that fall around the hips need to have one side (The right side!) to each end.
Then you will want two more vinyl strips cut. These will extend from the lower half of the metal ring down by the sides and attach to the parachute snaps already sewn in. Sew the ends of the upper back area to the ring and attach the correct parachute snap pieces to the ends.
Cut velcro pieces that are a few inches long and glue the velcro to the backside of the vinyl strips that extend from the lower metal ring. This way you can adjust the straps as you like them under the arm/ lower sides as you like them.
Scabbard: 1/4 yard vinyl fabric, 6 yards of black leather twine, 2 sets of Parachute snaps.
I laid the vinyl out flat and laid the sword on top. I left 2" seam allowance and cut out a narrow sleeve. I sewed it together fabrics facing in and then I turned it right side out. I added a few studs to the front and glued them Once dry I made small snips and laced the scabbard up the sides with the leather twine. I sewed w few small vinyl strips to the back and added the parachute snaps. This way you can adjust the scabbard as you like it, on the upper back or at either hip depending on if you are right or left handed.
Sword: I purchased a 41" sword.
I cut the hilt off it and my boyfriend was a sweetie and printed me a 3d wolf hilt. You can find the details @ www.Thingiverse.com. I cleaned it up a bit with a dremmel tool and then I sanded it with a coarse piece of sand paper. I painted it a few times with a white and gold paint, added a little glow in the dark paint to the eyes, and then attached the hilt to the sword. Depending on the sword and finished wolf hilt, you may need to hollow out the center and adding structure to the inside of the hilt. I put this together and tested it and it broke so I did it once more, this time it's as strong as can be so make sure to test it out.
I used a lot of gorrilla glue-the super glue kind, a few thin strips of black vinyl, 3 or so yards of leather twine, and a dowel possibly inside to keep the sword and hilt attached. I added a plastic piece that fit over the sword handle and the hilt and added a lot of glue. A LOT of glue. Let it dry fully. Make sure you allow for proper ventilation when gluing these pieces together. I also added some glow in the dark paint to the blade of the sword. It should show up in the dark but I would test it out by leaving it outside in the sun for a bit a few nights before Halloween. I am adding the rest of the glow in the dark glue with the 'extras pack' in case you want to add more.
Cape: 6.5-7 yards of fabric for the base cape, drawstring for neckline of the cape and for the hood., 1.5 yards of faux fur wolf fabric, 3 yards of fur trim, black fabric for the lining of the wolf fur panel, hook and eyes, sewing needle, thread, 4 buttons, 4-1/8" wide (very slim) x 8" black elastic, 2-1/2" wide x 1.5-2" long elastic set of parachute snaps, and a hook to attach your gauntlets to the inside of the cape, leather twine.
This cape is really great. I made it long so it falls 51" from the center front down to the bottom hem. The sides have faux wolf fur running down the front. It is made from a diamond design on it and the neckline has a drawstring. It also has hook and eyes to close at the center front. It has a hidden hood, nice and big and can be worn with the faux wolf fur or without. The hood has its own drawstring. The faux wolf fur at the neckline is attached at the center front with parachute snaps on the underside. It is also attached via elastic and buttons that latch from the underside of the neckline of the cape to buttons on the underside of the fur piece. The wolf fur has a polymer faux wolf fur hanging off the end with a piece of leather twine. The inside seam on the left side of the cape also has a hook so you can attach the gauntlets when not being worn, or your keys.
Follow the directions that come with your cape pattern. Sew the vertical side seams down. Attach and sew the hook for the gauntlets (*optional). For the faux fur strips that run vertically down the front I found I could sew them onto the cape with my machine but had to hand sew to seal the seams. It depends on how tough your machine is and how thick the fur strips are. Mine had bias tape added and it was still to heavy to run through the machine.
You will want to make the cape and add the drawstring inside. Next make the hood with the drawstring added. Then add the hood to the cape. Sew the hook and eyes to the center front opening of the cape. Add at least one set for closure, more if desired.
Lay your wolf fur fabric out and cut out a big piece that looks like an animal laying flat. Lay out the black lining fabric and cut out a piece the same shape and size only slightly smaller around 1/2" so the edges of the fur piece curl under just a tiny bit. Pin the fur and lining pieces together-fabrics facing in-and sew around the edges leaving only a few inches of an opening so you can slip the piece right side out.
Turn the piece right side out and add buttons to the bottom side of the fur piece. Add the slim elastic strips to the inside of the collar of the cape.
This is a good time to test it out so determine where is best for placement of the parachute snaps. You will want to take the wide elastic pieces and the parachute snap. Slip one piece of the elastic through the right end of the snap and hand sew it to the underside of the fur panel so it lays flat and is hidden from view. Sew the snap into place, making sure you sew both the lining and the fur piece so the fur piece won;t slide later on. DO the same with the other side. Test this area by trying it on. It should lay flat without being able to see the snap at all. Looks good? Sweet, now you're done! At this point I found I needed to tuck and sew the lining up just a tiny bit more so it wasn't visible.
mens leather gloves, velcro, fabric glue, thread, black vinyl, 1/8" wide slim elastic, leather twine.
I purchased a pair of mens black leather gloves in a size xl. I then made wrist guards out of the black vinyl I used for the battle tunic. I cut two pieces of vinyl out for each wrist. Before you sew the front and back of each wrist cuff together you will want to add vinyl strips to the inside of the wrist area on each. Mark the areas where you want your strips sewn with masking tape and then sewing the strips down. You will want to sew the pieces -fabric facing- around the edges, leaving a few inches of an opening so you can turn the piece right side out. Do the same with the other wrist cuff. Then make very small cuts around the edge that will be up toward your elbow and lace the edges with leather twine. Do the same with the other wrist piece.
Glue the extra faux fur left over to the inside of the wrist cuffs with fabric glue, making sure to allow the pieces to dry for 24 hrs. This glue takes a while to glue so depending on how much you use, you may need a solid 48 hrs for it to turn clear.
Make a small incision near the wrist of the gloves and the wrist cuffs and attached the glove to the cuff with a piece of 1/8" wide elastic. Tie together once more with leather twine.
To finish these gauntlets you will want to glue velcro strips to the wrist cuff area to each so the vinyl strips wrap around and hold closed to hold the cuffs closed around the wrist.
You are now completely finished with your Jon Snow Season 6 inspired costume set!
Happy Halloween! I am off to list this costume set on etsy. I only have one but I may find someone that still needs a costume. The size of the costume is a men's large-x-large.
This set can ship out as early as this coming Monday morning and is boxed in two boxes, one with the majority of the costume (sword, scabbard, body straps, belt, gauntlets, riding tunic, battle vest) and then the cape which is in a separate box. This set ships USPS Priority in the US. Any questions let me know! The best way to reach me is usually via etsy.