Hello December!
In the way of happy news, I have officially finished making a Khaleesi inspired Winter Coat from season 6 of Game of Thrones. It is nice and warm and so very soft. My hands are also very raw at this point but it's finished...
It was made from three diffreent faux fur fabrics and a silky grey lining. I have included all of the details below if you are interested in making one of your own but for now let us just scroll through and look at some of the photos. mmm, so soft!
I used foam for the shoulder blades and shoulder pads and a silvery grey lining that makes this coat just perfect in comfort and form. There was a lot of sewing involved though so just a heads up there. In the end I really liked the one I made but I would definitely take a look at some of the other coats that have recently been listed because those are absolutely phenomenal. Just incredible everyone!
The pattern I went with was Butterick B5401 and I just altered it a great deal. When looking for a pattern go with one that is a double breasted coat pattern. AND you're even better off if you can find one that has three panels for the front and three panels for the back. But even if you were to use a basic pattern with more straight lines, you can still alter it as needed for the purpose of your own Khaleesi coat. So, find yourself a pattern and the rest of the materials and I will lead you through the project!
Materials:
Sewing pattern-a pattern for a double breasted coat will be fine. I went with the Butterick B5401 and altered it.
3.5 yards of a base faux fur in white or ivory
1.25 yards of a white/ ivory colored faux fur with a pattern to it such as the chevron fabric I used
1/2 yards of high pile faux fur in white
4.5 yards of lining fabric
4 large white hook and eyes (2 packs as they usually come 2 / pack)
2-3/4"-1" round buttons
1/2 yard of a non-elastic trim (something about 1/8"-1/4" width, rather slim and strong but not slippery like a satin trim)
2/3-1 yard of 1/4" thick foam-this is pretty narrow in width, you will need two pieces for large shoulder pieces. You should find this type of foam on the bolt in the interfacing section of your store. It's usually $2-3/ yard
1" shoulder pads
2 spools of cream colored thread (I used two spools, if you're lucky you might be able to get away with one large spool).
1 spool of grey thread-optional-used mostly for the lining but you can use it throughout
1 pack of polydye in the color gun metal
paint brush (I found that a 2" wide paint brush worked best).
gloves, protective eye wear, a bucket, a smaller cup, and a dash of salt & vinegar-basically all of the things it says you will need on the pack of dye. Follow those directions.
a sewing needle for the machine for extra heavy materials
a large sewing needle for the sewing you will be doing by hand
a skein of grey/ chrome thick and thin yarn. This is a wool/ acrylic blend and varied in thickness and in color from an off white to a darker steel color.
You will also need a space to dye the coat. This project gets messy so you will want to find an appropriate work space (and make sure to cover any places safely as the dye stains bathroom areas easily. You don't want your light colored tub to be gun metal grey in the end. You might end up with an awesome coat, but that's not a necessary sacrifice for a forever stained grey tub).
*And finally, I am going to put a low impact tape on the list, like a masking tape. This is optional but I find it very useful so that you can cut and mark all of the panel pieces after you cut them. Bring a pen with you too :)
Note: The sewing machine I used is a tipmatic/ triptonic and it is really great for sewing heavier items such as this. If you have a general sewing machine and still want to make this coat I understand and I do think it is possible. You are most definitely going to want to switch to a heavier sewing needle and assume you will have quite a bit of hand sewing to do, but that is true regardless. I would say for good measure (and by that I mean in order to NOT break your sewing machine) just sew as far as you can on the machine and hand stitch areas the rest that is too difficult for the machine to sew.
Making the Coat: To start make sure that you cut all of your pattern pieces slightly wider as you will be warping the fabrics quite a bit and a little bigger is better. You will be bringing it down to size but it's better to have a smidge more than less to start out. If your coat pattern is a shorter version you will want to extend the fabric you cut so your coat will be longer as well.
You are also going to want to alter your pattern a bit. Make sure you cut your pieces for the front fold over area much higher than the pattern, and again, it is better to have it higher and cut away the excess later on. Mark each piece with the low impact tape after you cut them out so you don't get lost in a sea of faux fur all the same color. You may want to draw out and alter a copy pattern instead of chopping up or adding to a current pattern, whichever you think will be most helpful.
Here is a list of each of the pattern pieces you will need:
* Make sure when you cut these pieces for both the front and back side panels that you match up the pattern if you have selected a faux fur with any type of pattern to it. Do this both for the front panels and the back side panels throughout.
*When cutting the lining pieces make sure to cut them bigger by about 1.5" minimum to compensate later on for fitting.
*Mark each pattern piece with tape once cut. I find putting tape on the top of each piece helpful but it depends on the fabric and tape you plan to use. If your tape will leave any sticky residue you can add the tape to the back panels. Either way marking the fabric facing up panels for the lining is really helpful before you begin to sew.
(Front of the coat)
Front Right and Left Side Panels-Cut 1 out on the fold of the base faux fur selected, cut the same for the lining. (You will end up with a right and left side panel in faux fur and a right and left side panel for the lining).
Front Left and Right Center Panels-Cut 1 panel of faux fur out for the left side, flip the pattern piece over and cut 1 lining panel for the inside of the coat. For the right side of the front coat panel you will want 2 pieces of faux fur, one for the outside and another for the inside lining so you will want to lay a big piece of fabric out on a fold and cut 2 panels. (You will end up with a right and left center panel in faux fur and and left center panel for the lining).
(Back of the Coat)
Back Right and Left Side Panels-As you did with the front of the coat, you will also want 2 side panels for the back. Lay a panel of fabric out folded and lay the side panel pieces on top of the fabric and cut out two side panels. Cut out the 2 lining panels in the same manner. (You will end up with a right and left side panel in faux fur and a right and left side panel for the lining).
Back Center Panel-The center panel that runs down the back is a bit oddly shaped and will need a bit of attention to get it right on your part. I would use photos of the original as reference. Once you have determined the shape and length of this piece lay the fabric out folded and cut one panel out. Do the same for the lining. (You will end up with a center faux fur panel in faux fur and a panel for the lining).
(Additional pieces)
Sleeves- Lay out your fabric on a fold and cut out two sleeve panels. Do the same for the lining. (You will end up with a right and left sleeve panel in faux fur and a right and left sleeve panel for the lining-make sure to mark the right and left of both the outer and lining fabrics with the tape so you get the right sleeve on the right arm).
Pockets-You will cut out a set of pockets. I went with the base faux fur. I originally thought they would be too bulky but they fall just fine at the sides. (You will end up with four pocket pieces)
Collar- For the neckline you will need about a 2" high collar. Cut 2 rectangular pieces that are 2.5" in width and the measurement around your neck, assume about 14" with the seam allowance. (You will end up with two pattern pieces).
Shoulder Panels-The shoulder panels are difficult to determine until you have the rest of the coat made. I cut the fabric pieces for these ahead of time but then trimmed as needed later on. You will need three pieces for each shoulder piece-1 outer base faux fur piece that you see on the outside, one piece of foam in the same size, and then a half faux fur piece for the underside. Cut your shoulder blade panel out big and top stitch to the matching piece of foam. (You will end up with 2 outer faux fur pieces, 2 foam pieces and 2 half moon inside faux fur pieces).
Sewing the coat: Once you have cut and marked each piece you will want to sew long vertical lines to each base faux fur panel. Just start sewing big chunky zigzag stitches vertically. You will do this for all of the pieces in which you used the regular faux fur (the front sides and fold over panels + the bask side panels, all but the front underside fur panel for the left front and the pockets. Those don't need zigzag stitches.
The marked areas are where I added long vertical stitches
The pattern I selected consisted of two side panels and two overlapping front panels for the front of the coat. The front left is lined in the grey lining but the right side is lined in the faux fur used for the front outer pieces. Out of your base faux fur you will cut out a right and left side panel and then a fur panel for the front fold over panel on the left and then a top and an underside panel for the right front fold over piece.
Cut these pieces out, mark with the tape and sew long zigzag stitches to each piece. Then sew the right side panel to the front panel as instructed -there may be additional details in the directions such as a pleat around the bodice-follow those instructions. Sew the other side of the coat the same way. Alight the faux fur lining piece that will go on the right underside to the matching outer facing piece so they are fabrics facing in and sew around the edges vertically. Add a few stitches throughout to flatten this into a stiffer piece. Put it aside so you can work on the back of the coat.
The back center of the coat is going to need a long oddly shaped panel made out of the chevron/ designed fabric, and the side panels for the back will be the same fabric used for the front of the coat. It doesn't matter if your sewing pattern offers one, two or three panels for the back. I found it easiest to pull up a picture of the original and cut the pattern pieces for the back side panels first and then cut an independent center piece similar to what I saw online for the center chevron material.
The outlined area is the shape you want for the most part. Sorry my photoshop isn't the best but you get the idea? :/
*If your sewing pattern offers 1-2 panels for the back of the coat you may find it easiest to cut those pieces out of the faux fur used for the front and then cut out a center panel out of the chevron fabric (in the shape as shown in your original images-you are going to want those on hand for reference). Then you can pin and sew down the center panel to the base fur and cut away the underside. That is one way to do that and it's not a terrible way since you will then cut strips of the last faux fur selected and top stitch it to the seams around where the first fur and chevron fur meet. Just make sure that you add those long zigzag stitches to the back side panels of the base faux fur before you add the chevron center panel.
You should have two front panels for the right and left side and one back panel at this point.
If your pattern offered pocket pattern pieces cut those out of the base fur and sew the front and backs together. Mark with tape on the side of the coat where you would like your pockets to fall-the pattern usually offers a good location but if not then determine what is comfortable-you can alter slightly as needed later on. Mark the area on the right and left side of the front with tape and then put the back and front right side panel together and sew down the center seams for all but the slot opening for the pockets to fit. Do this to the other side as well and now your project just might start looking like it could someday be a coat! It's exciting isn't it?
Now you will want to add your pockets. Position these so the are in a good location for the coat. You can try this sleeveless coat on if needed and determine for sure where you want the pockets to fall. Place them with pins and sew them in on the underside. Once your sleeves have been added you may find you would like to close up those seams below where you have sewn the pockets-check to make sure, if needed add a small stitching to seal them up.
Once this is finished you will want to add your sleeves. Turn the pieces right side out and sew lengthwise down each outer sleeve. Do the same to the lining pieces. Align the outer faux fur sleeves correctly to the coat so the sleeve seam aligns to the lower side seam of the coat itself, pin and sew them in.
Now we're going to work on that cropped neckline. This piece will wrap around the upper neckline where it begins to dip inward near the center front as the front of the coat closes. If you do not have a pattern piece in your pattern you can easily make one. You will measure around the collar area once you have sewn the front and back panels together. Measure the length needed, cut two 2.5" width x about 17" or so for the length. Turn the pieces so the backside of the fabrics is facing outward and sew the short ends and one long side, flip it right side out. Align it so that the open end is tucked in and lined up with the back neckline and then sew it down around the collar.
The neckline is pretty small and falls about 2" in height. If you find it gaps at the back then you can pinch and add stitching to have it conform to the back neck more.
You're still missing those beautiful peaked shoulders so now that everything else for the outer coat is finished you will want to try this on a sewing doll if you have one, or even just a large coat hanger-I find something like a mens suit hanger works ok, just something to offer a bit of structure while you pin the shoulder panels on.
Take this piece and lay it out so the outer fur panel is facing down (the foam will be on the top now) and cut out a half moon shape of faux fur-I say half the piece because you only need the fur to cover the underside before the top outer piece of the sleeve meets the underside of the blade. You will want to cut out the same pieces for the other shoulder blade as well. Then align the pieces so they are fabrics facing inward and sew around the edges so that when you turn the blade right side out it forms a nice rounded blade shape. Do the same with the other blade. Once you turn the blades right side out then you want to add strips of the 2" pile faux fur to the outer edges of the shoulder blades.
I realize that this is a big blade and you might not trust that we're going to bring this down to size but we are so don't worry so much. I want you to take one of your blades and position it so it's up by the shoulder of the coat and I want you to fold the edge of the blade under and align it with the outward seams near the upper back shoulder of the coat. You're going to want to stitch this in place by hand. Do the same with the other shoulder blade and if you can, carefully reinforce these areas with the sewing machine. Sew around the collar as well so the blades lye flat. You may or may not have success with this on the sewing machine, it is a bit thick with the folded foam. If you cannot sew it on the machine then reinforce the areas really well by hand.
In this photo you can see small x marks on either side of the arms. This is the point where you will sew the shoulder blade panel to the front side of the coat. This area is also where your 2" pile faux fur trim strips were sewn on.
The blades at this point will be unstitched still and you will want to position these so they stand up a bit on their own. Align the blades so they are going to stand upright a bit but not too much-get it just right-and pin it and sew a variety of stitches as shown in the image below. You should find the cut marks you made to these areas originally will help fan out the blades so they stand up rather straight.
You will find the cuts will vary in length, longer closer toward the center of the neckline ans shorter cuts toward the shoulders but this way you can prop your blades up perfect. Tack the area down with a needle and thread and do the same with the other side in the same manner. If you are able, reinforce these areas on the machine as well, stitching downward with wide zigzag stitching so it blends in with the base fabric well.
At this point I took a look and decided to add a little bit more form to the bodice and hips so I pinched and stitched to tailor it a bit more. I reinforced these areas with the sewing machine.
Hand sew the shoulder blades so they cause the sleeves to peak outward about 1/2" or so.
Now you are going to want to prepare your dye and the area to work and mix up a dark colored batch of the dye. Add some to an additional container and add a bit of water to lighten it up and paint large streaks of the dye onto the coat. Brush the back as you like it and the sleeves. Allow it to dry, make any additional touch ups and then take the darker dye lot you originally prepared and make narrower, darker streaks throughout the base faux fur areas. Allow this to dry. Rinse it out and allow it to dry once more.
While you are waiting for it to fully dry once rinsed you can prepare the lining. The lining consists of the front and back side panels, the left front center panel, the back side and center panel and the sleeves. Sew all of these pieces together in the same manner as you did the coat itself.
It is time to add the chrome yarn for darker detail and I had hoped to add it on my machine but ended up adding it by hand at the end here (and yes, it took a really really long time but I was really happy with the results because it looked even throughout as opposed to some hand stitched and some on the machine). You are simply going to hand stitch the yarn down, mixing in, you just need a little detail really. Reinforce all of those stitches at least two more time for security.
Now you will add the lining. Pin the lining and the outer coat together fabrics facing so that they align at the back center neckline and pin outward from each side. Sew all the way around the edges once aligned and then turn your coat right side out and see how it hangs. Once you have determined the correct length for your coat you can turn it inside out once more and sew inward from the side seams, leaving about 12" or so of an opening. The bottom hem in the center back gets a little weird because you have used a different fabric and a weird cut, and you added all those vertical stitches, and you dyed it. So it's going to get a little weird so you want to determine the length with pins starting from the center hem outward, and then turn it inside out and sew from the outer seams inward. Turn the coat right side out, fold up the bottom hem and hand sew it closed. *Make sure when you go to hem the lower front hem you hold the inside front panel up accordingly or it will fall too low in relation to the front panel.
You are almost finished, just a tiny few more details. You are going to want to make small loops that fit well over the buttons you purchased and use those on the right inside hip. Find a good place for the loops at the side and the buttons on the fold over panel and hand sew them in. Next get those big white hook and eyes and both at the upper right and left shoulder you will want to add one at each side. The two others will be added on the left side, slightly lower so they hug the bodice well.
Grab that sewing needle and thread because you're going to want to make a small stitch on the inside cuff of each sleeve. This will keep the sleeves from pulling in when you go to remove the coat.
You are now officially finished! How's it look? Pretty good huh? Sure, it might have taken a bit of forever and you might still have some faux fur in your lungs but you might also have a marvelous coat and that's what this is all about!
I am off to list this coat on etsy. It is a womens size 10-12 and falls 44" from the shoulder downt he front to the bottom hem. It is of course ready to ship! I am considering making a few more but that will really depend on all of you and your interest. I might make a few more and I will offer it in Ivory, the Chrome colored version as shown with the colored yarn and dye detail, and also in a Jet Black as I can get the 2" pile faux fur in black as well. Alright well I think that wraps this post up. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Happy Crafting & Happy Holidays!
Lindsay :)
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